

객가요리 (Hakka Cuisine) 와 베이징 1스타 하카 퀴진 Zijin Mansion
이주하는 사람들의 음식에는 ‘어떻게 더 맛있게 먹을 것인가’보다, ‘어떻게 살아남을 것인가’에 대한 고민이 담기는 것 같다. 중국의 객가요리(Hakka cuisine - 하카 퀴진)을 보면, 역사와 시간이 함께 찾아낸 답변이 전해진다. 특정 도시에 정착해 발전해 온 세련된 미식이 아니라, 수 세기에 걸친 이동과 정착, 그리고 반복된 생존의 경험이 켜켜이 쌓여 만들어진 음식이 객가요리의 중요한 정신을 구성한다. 객가요리, 하카 퀴진 객가인들은 본래 중국 본토 북방에서 시작해 전쟁과 사회적 변화 속에서 남쪽으로 이동한 집단으로 알려져 있다. 광둥 동부의 메이저우, 푸젠 서부, 장시 남부 등지에 정착하며 각 지역의 기후와 식재료에 적응해왔고, 그 과정에서 음식 역시 끊임없이 변화했다. 하지만 어떤 환경에서도 변하지 않은 기준이 있다. 재료를 낭비하지 않을 것, 오래 보관할 수 있을 것, 그리고 노동을 견딜 수 있을 만큼 충분히 영양적일 것. 이 세 가지


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