A Culinary Journey Through Sheung Wan with Chef Vicky Cheng
On a day in Sheung Wan, I had the privilege of experiencing Hong Kong’s dried seafood culture through the eyes of one of its culinary artisans—Chef Vicky Cheng. Known for his elevated take on Cantonese cuisine at his renowned restaurant, Wing, Chef Cheng has earned international acclaim for his ability to reinterpret traditional flavors with a modern sensibility. His culinary approach has garnered him numerous accolades, positioning him as one of the foremost ambassadors of contemporary and very unique Cantonese cuisine.
Walking alongside him through Sheung Wan’s bustling streets, Chef Cheng offered insights into each ingredient, turning the neighborhood into a vivid tableau of Hong Kong’s food history. In the heart of this traditional dried seafood market, Cheng’s passion for honoring heritage ingredients was palpable. “Texture is everything,” he explained, inspecting a piece of dried sea cucumber. He highlighted the firmness and color as markers of quality, emphasizing how each product’s texture transforms a dish. For Cheng, dried seafood is not merely a component but a representation of history and craft, demanding respect in each culinary creation.
As we moved from vendor to vendor, Cheng described how these dried ingredients shape his cuisine at Wing. Known for his deft fusion of heritage and innovation, he spoke about merging classic Cantonese ingredients with refined techniques. “These ingredients,” he gestured toward jars of dried abalone and fish maw, “are our link to the past, and I aim to showcase their significance in new ways that respect their history and elevate their natural qualities.”
The tour through Sheung Wan concluded with a heightened appreciation for the dedication behind each piece of dried seafood. Chef Cheng’s expertise and vision shed new light on these ingredients, blending the depth of Cantonese tradition with the flair of modern fine dining. His culinary philosophy resonates far beyond Hong Kong, making him not only a steward of Cantonese heritage but also an innovator in the global culinary landscape. This journey through Sheung Wan, led by one of its foremost culinary interpreters, left me with a richer understanding of Hong Kong’s dried seafood and its lasting significance in Cantonese cuisine.
The World of Dried Seafood in Hong Kong
Hong Kong’s food culture is deeply rooted in a culinary tradition that has flourished for centuries, with dried seafood at its core. Known for its medicinal properties, depth of flavor, and storied past, dried seafood is a cultural symbol. The use of dried seafood in Cantonese cuisine dates back to ancient China, where food preservation was essential. Drying seafood preserved it for long periods, helping inland communities access seafood. In Hong Kong, the tradition flourished due to its strategic coastal location. The maritime trade brought various seafood types, which were preserved and traded along bustling trade routes. Dried seafood not only served as a reliable food source but also became a status symbol, with prized items like dried abalone fetching high prices for their purported health benefits.
Actually, dried seafood transcends culinary use; it’s part of family traditions, festivals, and even traditional medicine. During Lunar New Year and important family gatherings, dried seafood is prepared as a symbol of prosperity and health. For example, dried fish maw represents wealth and abundance, while dried oysters symbolize good fortune. Chinese herbalists value dried seafood for health benefits, recommending ingredients like dried sea cucumbers for blood circulation and energy balance, which supports the Chinese concept of “Yin and Yang.”
Dried specialties in Cantonese cuisine
Dried abalone, a prized ingredient in Cantonese cuisine, is considered a luxury item due to its complex umami flavor and chewy texture when rehydrated and cooked. Ranging in price from USD $300 to $2,000 per kilogram based on quality and origin, this delicacy is often aged to deepen its flavor profile. Traditionally, dried abalone finds its place in soups and braises, especially in the renowned dish Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, where its richness enhances the dish’s intricate layers of flavor.
Dried fish maw, derived from a fish’s swim bladder, holds a special place in Cantonese food culture, valued for its unique gelatinous texture and health benefits. With prices varying from USD $100 to $10,000 per kilogram – crazy, right? -, fish maw is often featured in soups, where it absorbs surrounding flavors, delivering a velvety mouthfeel. A popular choice for luxury banquets, dried fish maw is reputed for promoting skin and joint health, making it as much a nourishing element as it is a flavorful one.
Dried scallops, or conpoy, bring a concentrated punch of umami to Cantonese dishes. Known for their robust flavor, these dried scallops range from USD $30 to $150 per kilogram and are versatile ingredients used in soups, sauces, and rice dishes. Conpoy is also integral to XO sauce, a famous Cantonese condiment, where its bold flavor adds depth and complexity, exemplifying the culinary art of flavor layering.
Chef Vicky Cheng's Sea Cucumber at VEA
Finally, dried sea cucumber stands out more for its texture than its taste, as it is nearly flavorless on its own but adept at absorbing flavors when cooked. This sought-after ingredient, priced between USD $200 and $3,500 per kilogram, is favored in festive dishes for its distinct jelly-like consistency and purported health benefits, including immune support and anti-inflammatory properties. Its unique qualities make dried sea cucumber a celebrated component in both traditional and luxurious Cantonese preparations.
The drying of seafood in Hong Kong is a meticulous craft, refined over generations to bring out the best flavors and textures in each ingredient. The process varies based on the type of seafood, with each method designed to enhance unique characteristics. Larger items such as abalone, fish, and squid undergo sun-drying, where the sun’s natural heat slowly removes moisture, condensing the flavors within and creating a more intense taste profile. This slow drying method is as traditional as it is effective, harnessing nature’s power to preserve the seafood’s essence.
For ingredients like fish maw and scallops, air-drying and smoking is preferred. This method helps prevent spoilage while enhancing flavors subtly. Some producers introduce a light smoking process to add a delicate layer of complexity, which infuses a gentle smoky note that complements the seafood’s natural taste. Dried shrimp and certain types of squid, however, are preserved through salt curing. The salt prevents bacterial growth, locks in moisture, and preserves the seafood’s briny qualities, adding depth to its flavor.
Mastering these drying techniques requires patience and skill, with most producers using family-owned, generations-old methods that preserve not only the food but also a valuable cultural heritage. Hong Kong’s dried seafood markets, especially in areas like Sheung Wan, showcase this dedication, with each vendor upholding the artistry of traditional drying practices that define the region’s culinary landscape.
Chef Vicky Cheng's Sea Cucumber Spring Roll at Wing
The Future of Hong Kong’s Dried Seafood Tradition
As globalization continues, Hong Kong’s dried seafood markets face challenges from rising production costs and environmental factors. Overfishing has affected the supply of certain prized ingredients, increasing prices and pushing the industry to explore sustainable options. However, younger chefs are incorporating dried seafood into modern dishes, bringing these time-honored ingredients into contemporary dining. This fusion between old and new ensures that dried seafood remains relevant while honoring its cultural roots.
As a symbol of history, resilience, and culinary craftsmanship. From abalone to scallops, these delicacies serve as vessels of flavor and culture, connecting generations. By preserving this culinary heritage, Hong Kong ensures its food culture remains as rich and complex as the flavors in its dried seafood. Whether enjoyed in traditional dishes or innovative fusion cuisine, dried seafood continues to be a cornerstone of Cantonese food culture.
Comentários