Rediscovering Fujian: A Deep Dive into Chef Yang Kang’s Modern Chinese Cuisine at XIA, Lohkah Hotel Xiamen

Why does one of China’s oldest culinary traditions still remain a mystery outside its borders—and what is Chef Yang Kang doing about it in Xiamen?

Why Fujian Cuisine Deserves the Spotlight

When people think of Chinese cuisine, it’s often Cantonese dim sum or fiery Sichuan hotpot that spring to mind. These regional styles have long dominated the global perception of Chinese food, including in South Korea. But among the Eight Great Cuisines of China lies a lesser-known gem—Fujian cuisine, rooted in coastal abundance, trade history, and a philosophy of gentle complexity. As one of China’s most maritime provinces, Fujian has long blended its rich seafood heritage with mountain-grown ingredients, fermented flavors, and international influences that span centuries.

XIA in Xiamen: A Contemporary Ode to Fujian’s Culinary Heritage by Chef Yang Kang

Tucked inside the quietly luxurious Lohkah Hotel & Spa in Xiamen, XIA Restaurant presents a compelling modern interpretation of Fujian’s regional flavors. Helmed by Head Chef Yang Kang, the restaurant was included in the debut Michelin Guide Fujian Edition and has since become a symbol of balance between tradition and reinvention.

Yang Kang, who hails from Jiangsu Province, began his culinary journey as a dishwasher and rose through the ranks by sheer determination. After gaining experience in Beijing, Chengdu, and Changsha—absorbing regional techniques from spicy mala broths to intricate Cantonese steaming—he eventually arrived in Xiamen, where he found his true calling in Min cuisine (Fujian cuisine).

XIA’s identity is defined by its dual allegiance: “Half Cantonese, Half Min,” as Michelin aptly described. But the restaurant is more than a fusion—it is a curated reflection of the land and sea, elevated by Chef Yang’s disciplined precision and warmth.

Culinary Philosophy: Technique, Temperature, and Emotional Depth

Chef Yang’s culinary philosophy centers on three pillars: discipline, temperature, and ‘deliciousness’. “I believe in expressing the true flavor of local ingredients through precise control of fire and technique,” he says. “The key is warmth—both in temperature and in emotional resonance. A good dish should feel like it’s alive with sincerity.”

This belief informs every plate at XIA, where 90% of the ingredients are locally sourced, often through close relationships with regional producers—such as the Yongchun Jiaoxin Vinegar Factory (est. 1950) and local fishing communities in Mindong. Sustainability isn’t just a trend here; it’s a guiding principle.

Signature Dishes That Tell a Story

One of the restaurant’s most lauded dishes is the Cold Peanut Soup—a silken peanut pudding topped with ocean-fresh seaweed, bridging land and sea in one bite. Another favorite, “Mapo Boston Lobster,” reinterprets the fiery Mapo tofu style using local spices and crustacean richness.

Yet the soul of XIA might be best captured in the “Lobster Stock Bomb Rice”—a deeply umami one-bowl wonder that speaks to both home-cooked comfort and haute cuisine. Bloggers call it “a spoonful of the kitchen’s story.”

Q&A with Chef Yang Kang: Philosophy, Journey, and the Future

Q. Where are you from, and how did you grow up?

A. I was born in Danyang, Jiangsu. My parents were away for work, so I was raised by my aunt and grandmother. That sense of independence shaped me early. I remember doing homework in my father’s small restaurant after school—that’s where I first felt connected to the kitchen.

Q. When did you decide to pursue cooking seriously?

A. I had never left my hometown until I was 15. Out of youthful restlessness, I moved north to Beijing, doing odd jobs including dishwashing. One day, a chef invited me to try working in the kitchen. The spark was immediate. But it wasn’t until I met a Cantonese chef in Qingdao who personally taught me his techniques and stories that I said to myself, “Let’s do this seriously.”

“From Qingdao to Xiamen, Chef Yang Kang is cooking a new chapter for Chinese cuisine.”

Q. How do you define your cooking philosophy?

A. Temperature and flavor—that’s what it boils down to. I focus on fire control, seasonal ingredients, and dishes that communicate warmth and sincerity. Our cuisine respects tradition but isn’t stuck in it. We absorb techniques from across China but stay rooted in Fujian’s identity.

Q. You’ve worked in multiple Chinese regions. What influences have stayed with you most?

A. Cantonese cuisine had the biggest impact—it’s structured, nuanced, and precise. From Chengdu and Changsha, I developed an appreciation for spice and layered aromatics. Now with Min cuisine, I’m bringing it all together.

Q. What’s the biggest difference between Cantonese and Min cuisine?

A. Cantonese is rich in fragrance and umami, while Min is delicate, clear, and deep. Both use seafood, but they highlight freshness in different ways. Min cuisine pays close attention to ingredient sourcing and seasonal variation. We reuse every part of the product to minimize waste.

Q. Can you share a meaningful dish from your Cantonese days?

A. Crab Roe Shark’s Fin Soup. I realized that shark fin doesn’t absorb flavor well—it’s about what’s around it. That led me to design our “Red Crab and Dried Silverfish with Guan Yan,” which reimagines that principle in a sustainable way.

Q. Any recent global collaborations or plans?

A. Yes, this year we partnered with NAAR restaurant from India—led by Chef Prateek Sadhu—for our first international collaboration. NAAR’s mountain-focused cuisine and spice-forward techniques inspired a theme of ‘mountain meets sea,’ which we interpreted using Xiamen’s coastal palette.

Q. What’s next for XIA and your own culinary journey?

A. I want to explore omakase-style “banqian” cooking—intimate, interactive, and honest. Our “Xia Ye Small Kitchen” is already bringing guests closer to the fire and the craft. But no matter the format, I’ll stay focused on warmth and taste. That’s the essence.

Toward a New Fujian Cuisine

XIA is a storybook of Fujian culture, told one dish at a time. Through Chef Yang Kang’s quiet discipline and heartfelt vision, the restaurant stands as a powerful ambassador for Min cuisine—subtle, soulful, and deeply rooted in place. In the rising tide of regional Chinese gastronomy, XIA is a name to remember.