If you are a seroius food-enthusiast, explore something more than just visiting a restaurant in Korea.
Korea’s traditional fermented sauces, known collectively as ‘jang,’ embody centuries of culinary wisdom. Recently recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, jang-making reflects a harmonious blend of nature and craftsmanship.
Nestled in the serene landscapes of Damyang, the Kisoondo Jang Farm offers an unparalleled opportunity to witness this legacy in action. Helmed by the celebrated artisan Kisoondo, this farm is a haven for those seeking a deep dive into Korea’s culinary heritage. In this guide, we’ll take you on a journey from Seoul to the heart of Damyang, explore what the farm has to offer, and share tips for a meaningful visit.
What Is the Kisoondo Jang Farm?
In the heart of Korea, where culinary traditions are deeply rooted in centuries-old practices, the name Kisoondo shines as a beacon of authenticity and excellence. Recognized as a "Living Human Treasure," Kisoondo is a master of jang, Korea’s traditional fermented condiments, which include soy sauce (ganjang), soybean paste (doenjang), and chili paste (gochujang). These staples are not merely ingredients but cultural artifacts, embodying the wisdom and flavors of Korean heritage. In 2024, Korea’s jang culture was inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list, bringing global recognition to this cornerstone of Korean cuisine and to artisans like Kisoondo, who preserve it with unwavering dedication.
Kisoondo has dedicated her life to preserving and advancing Korea’s rich fermentation traditions. Her philosophy is rooted in organic, sustainable practices and the belief that food is a bridge between humans and nature. The farm’s idyllic location in Damyang provides the perfect environment for jang’s natural fermentation process. Here, visitors can immerse themselves in the art of making soybased sauces like doenjang (soybean paste), ganjang (soy sauce), and gochujang (red chili paste), all crafted using ageold techniques. Her family has been making jang for over 360 years, and she represents the seventh generation of this lineage. Growing up surrounded by earthenware jars (onggi) fermenting jang, Kisoondo inherited not only the technical knowledge but also the profound respect for this culinary art.
What sets Kisoondo apart is her commitment to traditional methods. She adheres to the ancient process of jangmaking, which involves using only natural ingredients and allowing the jang to ferment and mature in large onggi pots under the open sky. This process can take several months to years, depending on the type of jang. The result is a product celebrated for its depth of flavor, purity, and health benefits.
The Legacy of Jang
Jang is the soul of Korean cuisine. Its deep umami flavor and healthful properties are the results of meticulous fermentation processes passed down through generations. These condiments not only define the taste of traditional Korean dishes like bibimbap, jjigae, and samgyeopsal but also symbolize the harmony between nature and human craftsmanship. The making of jang requires mastery over time, temperature, and natural ingredients such as soybeans, salt, and water. Each batch is unique, shaped by the microclimate of its environment and the skill of the artisan.
Getting to Kisoondo Jang Farm
Reaching this hidden gem from Seoul is an adventure in itself, offering glimpses of Korea’s diverse landscapes along the way.
Traveling by KTX
1. Departure Stations: Start your journey at Seoul Station or Yongsan Station.
The highspeed KTX train ensures a swift and comfortable trip.
2. Arrival Station: Alight at Gwangju Songjeong Station.
Travel time: Approximately 2 hours
Tickets are readily available, but booking ahead is recommended for peak travel times.
From Gwangju to the Farm
1. Taxi: A 30minute taxi ride from Gwangju Songjeong Station brings you to the farm.
Estimated fare: KRW 20,000–30,000
2. Car Rental: Renting a car allows you the flexibility to explore nearby attractions at your leisure. Damyang’s rural charm is best experienced at your own pace.
My personal Experience in December 2024
Over the years, I’ve visited many jang farms and temples, tasting exceptional soy sauce and doenjang (fermented soybean paste), but this was my first time visiting Kisoondo’s farm. Here, every jar and every process tells a story of tradition, patience, and craftsmanship.
During my visit, I learned some fascinating insights about jang from the experts at the farm:
Jang matures best in large crocks, where it develops rich, deep flavors over time.
Poor-quality jang doesn’t improve with age—it’s crucial to start with excellent ingredients and careful preparation.
Cheongjang (clear soy sauce) is made without boiling and is typically used after about a year of natural fermentation.
Jinjang (aged soy sauce) is boiled before being left to mature further. While opinions vary on whether boiling is better, the fermentation and aging process proceeds effectively regardless, thanks to the active microorganisms.
After more than 10 years in a crock, soy sauce can form soy salt crystals. Surprisingly, these crystals help reduce the overall salinity, creating a beautifully balanced flavor profile.
One of the highlights of my visit was tasting soy sauce and doenjang that had been fermenting since 2009—over 15 years! Let me start with the soy sauce.
When the lid of the massive crock was lifted, the aroma hit me immediately—a rich, intoxicating scent that was deeply savory and utterly inviting. The soy sauce itself had a texture like slightly runny honey, viscous and glossy. As I dipped a ladle into the jar and let the sauce flow onto my pinky, I was mesmerized by its luxurious, slow movement. The flavor was a revelation—intensely umami, layered, and complex, with a lingering depth that seemed to envelop my entire palate.
Then came the doenjang. We began by tasting a fresh batch, made just this year. Its ivory hue hinted at its youth, and the beans were still intact, giving it a pleasantly grainy texture. The flavor was nutty, light, and earthy—a promising foundation. But what I was really waiting for was the 15-year-old doenjang.
When they finally lifted the lid on the enormous crock, I was struck by the difference. The color was a rich blend of chestnut and cherrywood, far darker and more intense than the fresh batch. The texture had also transformed, becoming dense and smooth, almost like creamy clay or firm cream cheese. Tasting it was an unforgettable experience. From the moment it touched my tongue, my mouth was flooded with bold umami flavors, subtle saltiness, and a refined mineral finish that lingered long after the bite. It was both clean and elegant—no mustiness, no overpowering saltiness—just pure, balanced perfection.
The visit didn’t end there. I enjoyed a beautiful meal featuring dishes made with Kisoondo’s jang: rice cakes dipped in grain syrup, bamboo shoots tossed in cheonggukjang, crispy seaweed chips, kimchi, shikhye (a sweet rice drink), and traditional sweets. Every bite was a testament to the mastery of jang-making and the versatility of these fermented treasures.
Visiting Kisoondo Jang Farm was a deeply enriching experience. It wasn’t just about tasting extraordinary soy sauce and doenjang—it was about witnessing the care, precision, and passion behind their creation. Kisoondo’s work is a true homage to Korea’s culinary heritage, and her jang deserves its place on the world stage. I left with a profound appreciation for her craft and a deep desire to return.
What to Experience at Kisoondo Jang Farm
The Majestic Jang Jar Garden
Imagine rows upon rows of clay jars basking in the sunlight, each containing jang at various stages of fermentation. This jar garden is not just a visual spectacle but a testament to timehonored traditions. Each jar tells a story, infused with the care and expertise of Kisoondo herself, who monitors the fermentation process with unwavering attention to detail.
HandsOn Jang-Making Workshops
Engage all your senses in a workshop where you can learn to craft jang from scratch. Under the guidance of Kisoondo and her team, you’ll experience the meticulous process of boiling soybeans, shaping meju blocks, and understanding the role of time and environment in perfect fermentation.
Kisoondo’s jang-making process begins with the selection of high-quality soybeans. The soybeans are boiled, mashed, and shaped into blocks called meju. These are dried and fermented, allowing beneficial microorganisms to develop. The meju is then submerged in a brine solution in large onggi pots, where it undergoes further fermentation. Over time, the mixture separates into ganjang and doenjang. Gochujang, meanwhile, is made by mixing powdered meju with red chili powder, glutinous rice, and salt, and then fermenting it for months.
This artisanal approach ensures that every jar of jang is not only a culinary product but also a vessel of Korean history and identity. The use of onggi pots, with their breathable clay material, is particularly vital as it allows the jang to ferment naturally while enhancing its flavor profile.
Conversations with a Culinary Icon
Should you have the fortune of meeting Kisoondo, her stories of passion and perseverance will leave you inspired. Her insights into the symbiotic relationship between nature and food, coupled with her warm demeanor, make this encounter a highlight of any visit.
Farm-to-Table Dining and Tasting
The onsite café offers a curated menu showcasing the depth of flavor jang can bring to dishes. Enjoy earthy doenjang stew, vibrant bibimbap laced with gochujang, or even innovative modern interpretations of traditional fare. Each bite is a celebration of nature’s bounty and artisanal craftsmanship. Don’t forget to pick up some jars of jang to bring a taste of Damyang home with you.
Preparing for Your Visit
Advance Reservations
Reservations are essential, especially if you plan to join a workshop. Check the farm’s official website or contact them directly to secure your spot.
Comfortable Attire
The farm’s rustic terrain calls for sturdy walking shoes and weatherappropriate clothing. Summers are warm, while winters can be chilly, so plan accordingly.
Check the Weather
Damyang’s climate plays a significant role in the farm’s ambiance. A sunny day illuminates the jar garden’s earthy hues, while a misty morning adds an ethereal touch to the surroundings.
Optimal Timing
Morning visits are ideal, as the sunlight accentuates the beauty of the jang jar garden and the surrounding landscape.
Explore Damyang
Extend your trip to include Damyang’s other gems. Bamboo groves at Juknokwon, the historic Gwanbangjerim Forest, and the serene Soswaewon Garden complement the tranquil charm of Kisoondo Jang Farm.
Take Home a Culinary Treasure
Kisoondo’s jang products make thoughtful gifts or a personal indulgence. The rich flavors and health benefits of these artisanal creations are unmatched.
In a rapidly modernizing world, traditional jang-making faces challenges such as industrialization and the declining number of artisans. Kisoondo’s work is not just about producing jang but also about educating the next generation. She operates a jang-making school in Damyang, where she teaches students the philosophy and techniques of this craft. By doing so, she ensures that the knowledge and spirit of jang-making endure. Her work reminds us that the most profound flavors are those steeped in history and crafted with care. Through her, the story of jang continues to inspire and connect people across cultures.
A visit to Kisoondo Jang Farm is more than a culinary excursion; it’s a journey into the heart of Korea’s heritage. As you wander through the farm, surrounded by the gentle hum of nature and the scent of fermenting soybeans, you’ll find yourself connected to a tradition that transcends time. Whether you’re a food enthusiast, a history buff, or a seeker of unique travel experiences, this is a destination that promises inspiration and discovery. Let the flavors and stories of Kisoondo Jang Farm linger with you long after your visit, a savory reminder of the beauty in tradition.
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